Koh Lao Liang - Discovering the better way

I jumped off the speedboat, walked onto the beach and discovered I had found a little paradise. It had taken over a year of living on the Andaman coast for me to discover Koh Lao Liang. It is not difficult to get to but it is far enough removed from other mainstream tourist destinations for it to be somewhat of a secret for the lucky souls who do discover it. The secret is open to the adventuresome and part of the discovery is a better way to holiday…

We left Had Yao Pier in Trang Province on a speedboat loaded with an arsenal of giant pineapples, fresh fish, loaves and loaves of bread and those unfamiliar Thai vegetables that end up making the most delicious curries. After thirty minutes we were maneuvering around soaring limestone cliffs that lend themselves to deep-water soloing routes for adventurous climbers and to fancy pictures for your digital camera. We glided over the coral reef that is the highlight of the daily snorkel trips we would be taking and then laid eyes on the beach that became our chair for the next few days. Some guests were walking around with climbing harnesses, some with masks and snorkels in hand, others were swimming or lying on the beach in sarongs and sunglasses. It was lunchtime and we walked past the wooden bar that has been built around the thick trunk of a shady tree. It was all-you-can-eat Thai and seafood buffet, and it was our introduction to a very social way of dining on a private island. It doesn't take long to adapt to the pace of Lao Liang. To absorb the natural beauty of the clear blue water, the brilliant white coral sand and the towering cliffs of red and black limestone, you may want to sit in one of the hammocks. Or go for a swim. Or a climb. Or a kayak. Or a dive. We had arrived on a small island in the south Andaman Sea and we had the freedom to do everything, anything or nothing.

On the second day they loaded a kayak onto a longtail boat and headed to the neighboring island. I was along to witness the brave feats of those intrepid enough to scale a cliff without any ropes, knowing that the only way down was a plunging fall into the water. I watched as they paddled the kayak from the longtail boat to the rock and searched for routes. They stood up in the kayak and reached high over their heads, then lifted themselves out of the kayak. The climbers appeared to get smaller and smaller as they struggled their way up the deep water solo routes. The good ones made it to the cave. The better ones gave us a back-flip on the way down. I suddenly had the urge to climb.

On the third day we discovered the art of relaxation. The tents are directly on the beach, so we didn't have to expend too much energy as we left the shady comfort of our safari-style tent and found the blazing sun. I thought about my sister at home, working, as I was sitting in the beautiful Koh Petra Marine Park trying to decide if I wanted to snorkel or to make a cup of tea. When she visits I will make sure she discovers the secret of Lao Liang too. I decided that it was time to look for angelfish, boxfish, butterfly fish, cornet fish, barracudas, razor fish and lionfish, so I grabbed a mask and snorkel and took the plunge.

On the fourth day we stepped out of our tents and the ocean was quiet. You could see the purple coral from the beach and catch glimpses of yellow sergeant major fish swimming from side to side. The tide was low and we picked the red kayak and paddled out to the next island. We discovered some caves to slip into and just sat in the dark for a minute, considering ourselves lucky to hear the sound of the water lapping the rock as we emerged into slits of sun to continue our paddle in the clear blue water.

On the last day they filled the air tanks and we boarded the dive boat for one final adventure. The deck burned our feet as we traipsed towards the back of the boat to check our BCDs and regulators. The coral under the water is as stunning as the limestone pinnacles that jut out of the water. We were a greeted by a rather large porcupine fish that seemed as relaxed as we were as we cruised around below the surface, discovering Lao Liang from a different viewpoint.

Everything had been arranged for our return trip to reality. The lucky souls who were leaving the island with me that day had shared in the discovery of one true adventure sports paradise island. And in discovering the better way to spend a holiday.

Note: Published in Krabi Magazine, issue 15, March 2007 – text by Jacqueline Kannan